Wedding Bells

Yesterday my clients Patrick and Eri joined me for a full day of climbing in Acadia National Park. We decided to start off at the South Wall and finish up at Otter Cliffs. Just before we left the shop, Patrick told of his intention to propose to Eri on one of the climbs that day. I suggested the top of the Story of O, a classic three pitch route with beautiful vistas. We set off. Near the top of Story of O I suggested to Patrick that he should wait until the end of the day, to have a nice cap stone to what was shaping up to be great day of climbing. He agreed. We climbed several more pitches at the South Wall and Central Slabs before heading off to Otter Cliffs. At some point during the day Eri told me she really liked climbs with stemming. I knew what climb we should end on, and would make a great stage for Patrick to propose, The Great Chimney. After a couple of classic routes at Otter, it was time to set Patrick's plan into motion. Eri rappelled down into the chimney, Patrick collected himself, and within minutes Eri was almost at the top. Patrick lowered a small bag with the ring just bellow the top of the climb. Eri was comfortably stemming on the last moves of the climb and opened the bag. Patrick proposed, Eri said yes, thus concluding an awesome day of climbing with an unforgettable top out. It was a first for me in my guiding career and I felt honored to be a part of such a special moment in two peoples lives.

Thanks

Dick Chasse

Early Summer Happenings

Wow. It’s been a busy spring and early summer here at Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School. To catch you up, below is a quick rundown on a few things we have been up to amid all the daily guiding.We hope to see you on the rock soon.

Untamed NE Adventure Race.

Untamed NE racer rappels into the night.

280' Tyrolean rope traverse. What a pump!

In mid June we were part of the Untamed New England Adventure Race. The race spanned 3 + days and was held in the Forks area of Maine. It featured well over 200 miles of running, mountain biking, paddling, orienteering and mountain skills. Untamed NE was a qualifying race for the world championships to be held in France later this year and was one of only two races taking place in the US. The race was won by the current world champions – Team Thule from Sweden. Kudos to all the athletes who crossed the starting line.

We orchestrated a mountain skills segment as part of the race. Participants started the segment with a rappel into the Dead River then paddled, ferried, floated or otherwise survived to the opposite shore where the ascended a cliff then ran to a tyrolean than spanned almost 300’ across the river. It was quite a challenge for all involved. Great fun and we look forward to doing it again.  Thanks to Sterling Rope for providing financial support to this event.  

AMGCS Sponsors Acadia Climbing Rendezvous

Dozens of climbers joined us in late May for three days of climbing, clinics, movies, speakers and volunteer service. 12 participants took part in a 3 day Rock Climbing Intensive while others took part in bouldering tours, anchor clinics, women's clinics, etc. Demo shoes were available from La Sportiva and Evolv. On Saturday night, speaker Janet Bergman Wilkinson showed slides and spoke of recent climbs and on Sunday guests watched the Reel Rock Film series. The event wrapped up with an Access Fund Adopt-A-Crag clean-up project in Acadia National Park.  Many thanks to La Sportiva, Evolv, Metolius and Sterling for helping to sponsor the event. 

Caltrans Scaler Course

Scalers in training.

Spent five days at sunny Donner Summit teaching a course for the CA Department of Transportation. The participants ranged for geotechnical engineers to laborers and were the CALTRANS trainers who train their crews to keep the highways open and safe from rockfall, etc. They are the crews that scale off loose rock, put up nets, blow stuff up, etc. A unique field that combines mountaineering skills with industrial rescue skills.  This was the second course for them in three years. They are psyched on the customized curriculum and through the PCIA (Professional Climbing Instructors Association) we hope to develop a standard curriculum that can be adopted by other states and internationally. 

2012 Guides

All of our guide staff this year are returning veterans from the past season. We spent much of early June refreshing and tweaking skills to keep everyone sharp out there and up to date on the latest and greatest ways to do things.

2012 Interns

We also welcomed seven new interns to Acadia Mountain Guides who spent all of June in training in preparation for leading some of our summer camps. Our interns are selected from university outdoor program leaders and this year we had over 60 applicants.

PCIA course continue to be strong.

This spring we instructed a Single Pitch course in Maryland along with two in Maine for a total 18 participants. In addition, we offered a Climbing Wall Instructor course too.   

AMG guides assist in two rescues.

Jon brings in Lifeflight 1 for a landing on the rocky coast.

Jon, Dick and Wesley joined park rescue personnel and MDI Search and Rescue volunteers to treat and evacuate a solo climber who had fallen while climbing unroped.  Jon coordinated the patient medical care and the landing zone set-up for Lifeflight to set down while Wesley and Dick assisted with the technical rigging. Jon is also a flight paramedic for Lifeflight. Earlier in the day, AMG guides also assisted in the evacuation of a climber who had a minor injury but could not be gotten down by their partner due to inexperience. You'll be happy to know that in over 40,000 guiding days, AMGCS has not had a serious accident or injury.

AMGCS is reaccredited by the AMGA.

The climbing school was re-accredited by the AMGA this spring.  We have been a long-standing believer in the benefits of accreditation and have been accredited every year since opening in 1993 – long before it became a public expectation of a climbing school. AMGCS is also accredited by the Professional Climbing Instructors Association making us the only dually accredited local climbing service.

Blind Climber climbs with AMGCS this week 

Ellie Weihenmayer on the seastack. Otter Cliffs.

IFMGA gude Jon Tierney climbs with Erik Weihenmayer on Rock Lobster, 5.9 at Otter Cliffs in Acadia National Park

Jon guided and climbed with Eric and Ellie Weihenmayer earlier this week. Erik is blind adventurer and motivational speaker. Despite losing his vision at the age of 13, Erik has become one of the most celebrated and accomplished adventurers in the world. Re-defining what it means to be blind, Erik has opened up the eyes and minds of people around the world. In 2001, Erik became the only blind climber in history to reach the summit of Mount Everest. In 2008, he completed his quest to climb the Seven Summits – the tallest peak on each of the seven continents. Since then, he continues to inspire others through actions and deeds. Among many other accomplishments. He has climbed the Nose of El Capitan and competed in the Primal Quest adventure race. A number of guides came out to join us. It was super inspirational and great learning for all of us to watch as Erik climbed some of the harder routes at Otter Cliff.  Here is a link to his website - http://www.touchthetop.com/index.aspx.

Remember When We Used to Go Rock Climbing...?

Fall is one of my favorite seasons.  It has perfect temperatures, the trees are nice to look at, the breeze is perfect, and I actually have some downtime to climb.  As I sit in the climbing shop in Bar Harbor, I look forward to my first afternoon off in a few months.  The idea of rock climbing excites me more then I can describe here.

On days like these all I can do is reflect on how amazing my life has been so far, and in no small part because of rock climbing.  Now don't get me wrong, rock climbing is a fun activity (dare I say sport?).  But what rock climbing has taught me, where it has taken me and the people I have met through it far out-weigh the simple act of grabbing a rock and pulling on it. 

Some of my best friends are people who I have met rock climbing.  My first two climbing mentors, Ivan and Josh, are still to this day two people that I would drop anything to be around.  The adventures and "Oh $#@T" moments with them helped cement my love of this sport.  My fellow guides can all recount their own experiences with their mentors. 

Beyond recreational climbing I have found my way to yet another brotherhood; guiding.  The guides I have met in my short three year career have all left a profound impression on me.  I learned what it meant to be a professional, no matter what your employment.  My mentors, Silas, Jon and Ian, have all taught me what it means to be a guide.  I am constantly learning new skills, ways of teaching, patience and gaining confidence to go anywhere and do anything. 

Today, I'm not here to sell anything or promote a business.  I am here to express my deep appreciation of those who have brought me to where I am, and brought rock climbing to where it is.  My mentors, my friends, my fellow guides and all the professional rock climbers (new and old) have all helped shape my perception of life.  Seeing the extremes to which the human mind and body can be taken is indeed amazing.  More so, the humility that accompanies many life-time rock climbers makes me proud to be counted among them.

Alright! Enough gushiness.  Here are some rock/ice climbing photos:

Triassic Sands Red Rocks, NV.

Iron Messiah Zion National Park, UT.

Jeff Slide Smuggler's Notch, VT.

Mixed Climbing at Toko Crag, NH.

Looking toward Denver Eldorado Canyon, CO.

"Beach Muscles" Kirk on top of the Red Garden Wall, Eldorado Canyon, CO.

Last pitch on Armadillo Katahdin, ME.

Emigrant Crack Acadia National Park, ME.

Get psyched for FALL folks!

Try Hard,
Ande Kahora

AMG Guides Do New York!

A few weeks ago, Adam Butterfield and Ande Kahora were fortunate to be part of the University of Vermont's Climbing TREK program.  The UVM Outing Club takes incoming freshman and sends them to various locations in the area to get first hand experience hiking, climbing, biking and paddling.  It is a great opportunity to get to know the areas vast diversity of outdoor pursuits.

As guides, Adam and Ande were charged with showing the new students around the cliffs of the Adirondack High Peaks of New York.  As fellow UVM students Adam and Ande have spent a great deal of time in the Adirondacks lifetime supply of rocky crags.

Some of the students had been rock climbing since a young age, and some had never touched rock before.  We visited many spots known for their varied terrain and get setting.  Mackenzie Pond boulders, the Beer Walls, Deadwater, Bark Eaters, Jewels and Gems are just a few placed the students climbed.  This just scratches the surface but does give them a great taste of what is out there.

UVM Student at Bark Eaters, NY

 Beyond the climbing, Adam and Ande decided it would be a great chance to make some TREK history and create a Tyrolean Traverse at our campsite in Wilmington Notch.  The two guides scouted an area where they could create a 90ft. traverse over the most pronounced rapids of a close by river.  Many of the students had never done a traverse like this before.  Some were excited while others had a few more trepidations.  Mostly all the students made the journey across and back.  It was definitely a memorable experience for all!

UVM student dangles above the raging river.

No Body Does a Hurricane like New Jersey Does a Hurricane!

Acadia Mountain guides is in Princeton, NJ this weekend facilitating a Professional Climbing Instructors Association (PCIA) course!  That's right, hurricane or no hurricane you cannot stop the PCIA from training new guides in the way of the rope...

After two days of serious weather the PCIA Base Managed Top Rope Sight Manager Course pushes on.  This course focuses on skills needed to set up top-rope climbs that are managed from below, and facilitate student involvement with belay techniques, rescue skills and team building initiatives.  This is the second step of curriculum to gaining certification through the PCIA. 

For more information on the PCIA visit: Professional Climbing Instructors Association or Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School

Skies may crack and rivers may swell, but there is no stopping the citizens of Princeton!

Wish us all luck and a safe return to Maine.

Ande Kahora

Only Downtime You Get...

Well once again it is raining here in Bar Harbor.  It seems the only time one can find to sit down and type is on a rainy day.

It has been a busy few weeks here on the island as Acadia Mountain Guides wrapped up our 2011 Summer Climbing Camps.  Additionally, we have entered into the beginning of August, which tends to be our busiest time of summer.  Everyone is trying to get in their last minute vacations before school and work start up again!

Our Rock Pro 4 camp spent the last week learning how to lead climb on traditional gear.  Many of our campers come with little or no experience with traditional climbing, but by the end of the week they are crushing it!  Traditional climbing combines the mental pressure of finding your route and placing good gear with the physical pressure of pushing what your body can handle.  It is an amazing mix of skills with incredible pay-offs!

Our regular guiding season has been chock full of people looking to taste the unique climbing around Acadia National Park.  Regular people are pushing their physical and mental boundaries on the rocky terrain of the islands coast.  Some people experience the thrill of leaning backwards over a 60ft cliff as they start their first ever rappel.  Other people experience the nervous unknown of stepping up to their first 5.10!

The climbing season here in Acadia is beginning to wind down.  If you haven't made it out to visit and go climbing yet, do it soon!  September is the best time of the year to climb in Acadia.  No crowds, perfect temps, solid rock and great times await all you would-be climbing animals!

KEEP CLIMBING
Ande

When It Rains It Pours!

If it's not rain, it's heat.  If it's not heat, it's people.  When Bar Harbor is in full swing you can always bet on a ton of something!

It has been awhile since our last posting...but for good reason.  Acadia Mountain Guides (AMG) is blowing up!  Our guides have been working tirelessly to get people out on their first or latest climbing trips in Acadia and all over the North East.  It has been hard to catch your breath these days.

Acadia Mountain Guides offers Half Day (4hrs) and Full Day (8hrs) trips into Acadia National Park on a daily basis.  Visitors to Bar Harbor have been taking full advantage of our beautiful island and park all summer long.

Climbing Wonder Wall at Otter Cliffs

Not only daily trips, but AMG offers week long camps for kids starting at the age of six.  Our camps primarily focus on rock climbing but also provide campers with exciting adventures like rafting, camping, hiking, swimming and sometimes GO-KARTS!  With all this excitement it's no wonder we have so many return campers every year.

Campers showing AMG pride at Chimney Pond in Baxter State Park, ME

As the summer days roll on think about booking your next trip.  September is right around the corner and is, in one guides opinion, the best time of the summer to go out climbing.  There are no people.  The weather is cool.  Lastly, there is little to no traffic in town.

Enjoy the rest of your summer!

Ande Kahora